Each face has a different appearance and structure that distinguishes it from the rest. Many differentiating characteristics can be found in a face, and that makes it unique.
These characteristics are closely related to morphology and visages, that is, to the structures and shapes of the face.
These elements represent two key factors when making up the face. The application of one or other corrections will depend on them, depending on the appearance and shape of the face, in general, and its elements, in particular, since be it the eyebrows, eyes, and mouth, or the forehead, nose, and chin.
The objective of this type of correction is nothing more than, based on morphology and visages, to hide the less attractive aspects of the face and highlight those through professional makeup.
What is the morphology of the face?
The face’s morphology is understood as the study of the shape of the human being and its proportions.
This study is the one that is carried out before makeup, and there are as many faces as there are people. They all have subtle differences that make them unique but to study them. They are classified with the same dominant: oval, round, square, elongated, etc.
With the appropriate techniques, the shape, lines, and volumes of each face can be assessed to identify the less aesthetic aspects and optically correct them through professional cosmetic products, applying different visagism techniques.
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Morphological study of the face
To study the face, one must start from a series of standard proportions, called ideal. Based on these proportions, the face must be analyzed, and special attention must be paid to three important elements: the axes, the central plane, and the profile.
Axes
The axes are used to study the general proportions of the face, determined by its bone structure. In this way, you can find two types:
- Longitudinal axis: from the hairline to the tip of the chin.
- Transverse axis: what the face measures in its widest part.
- The relationship between the length and width of the face marks the differences between the ovals.
- Oval faces: longitudinal axis slightly longer than the transverse.
- Elongated faces: longitudinal axis longer than the transverse.
- Dilated faces: longitudinal axis almost the same as the transverse.
Central plane
In the frontal plane, two directions must be observed, horizontal and vertical.
- In the horizontal plane, proportions and lines can be studied.
The proportions refer to the measurements of the face. The face must keep a balance between its parts. That is, it should measure the same from different points.
- From the scalp to the root of the nose.
- From the root of the nose to its base.
- From the base of the nose to the base of the chin.
The lines refer to the analysis of the lines and their direction, made up of:
- Eyebrows
- The eyes
- Mouth
These can be ascending, horizontal, or descending, although all the face lines can be rectified employing makeup techniques.
- In the vertical plane, two other elements must be taken into account, asymmetries and the profile.
There is some asymmetry in the face, the right part of the face is slightly different from the left in terms of:
- The line, thickness, length, or height of the eyebrows.
- The line of the eyes.
The mouth can present different types of asymmetries between the two lips and between both sides.
Between both sides of the nose and the jaw.
By drawing a line that divides the face into two equal parts, we can more accurately observe its asymmetries to compensate for them through makeup techniques.
Profile
The profile or lateral plane is another element of study, formed by the lines that draw the forehead, nose, and chin.
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The geometry of the face
The shape of the oval resembles a geometric figure and, therefore, they are classified and named as the figure with which they have the greatest similarity.
In this way, the faces can be oval, square, round, triangular, etc.
Remember that it is very difficult to find pure ovals that fully correspond to a certain shape, so you always have to classify them according to the dominant shape.
Types of ovals
For the study, ovals are divided into five groups and eight types:
- Balanced: oval.
- Narrow: elongated.
- Widths: round, square.
- Combined: triangular, inverted triangular, hexagonal.
- Associated: rectangular.
Oval correction
Once the study and cataloging of each oval have been carried out, it is time to make the corrections based on these data.
Oval Faces
They are considered the most balanced and harmonic faces, so they do not need special corrections.
They are characterized by having the longitudinal axis slightly longer than the transverse. In addition, its shape, seen from the front, resembles that of an oval, while in profile, the jaw forms a slightly oblique line.
Elongated faces
In this case, it is also a face with a longitudinal axis longer than the transverse axis. Its shape, seen from the front, is elongated, and in profile, the jaw forms an oblique line.
To balance its shape and characteristic height, an optical effect must be created by which the face appears wider. For it,
The light tones are applied on the sides of the face and the dark ones on the chin and in the upper area to reduce their importance and shorten their length.
On the other hand, the lines should be horizontal and lengthen, slightly towards the sides, to provide an effect of greater width. The blushes, on the other hand, will be applied in a slightly horizontal direction.
Round
The round faces present a rounded shape seen from the front, also the chin. If it is very wide, an optical elongation effect can be created using some makeup resources.
First, they must be given an oblique direction to make a face appear optically more elongated since if they are horizontal, the effect would be wider.
In addition, to reduce the width of this area, a dark concealer should be applied on the sides of the face, and a light concealer in the center of the face.
As for the application of the blush, it must be in a slightly oblique direction.
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Squares
Its shape seen from the front is square since the temples, and the jaws form a straight line, and the chin is square. Viewed in profile, the jaw is also a straight line in the horizontal plane.
If it is balanced, the square face is usually quite attractive, and in many cases, it does not have to be corrected, but in the opposite case, there are some aspects that we can work on.
As in the previous case, they must be given an oblique shape to make a face appear optically more elongated.
Along with this, a light concealer in the center of the face and the blush applied in a slightly oblique direction.
To do this, a dark corrector must be applied in the jaw area, taking into account that this type of face has the same width in the forehead area and the jaw.
Rectangular
They are the faces that combine two types of ovals. They present typical characteristics of two different categories of ovals, in this case, the long ones and the squares.
Its shape, seen from the front, is rectangular, but if we draw a line from the temples to the jaw, it will be straight and seen in profile. The jawline will also be straight in the horizontal plane.
The lines of the eyebrows and eyes should not be too elongated on the face, and their direction should not be too horizontal or too oblique.
To make a face more oval and the chin shorter, dark concealer is applied to the upper edge of the forehead, in the jaw area. ”
On the other hand, the blush is applied in the area of the cheekbones in a rounded way.
Triangular
They combine a wide and a narrow part and are called triangular, inverted triangular, and hexagonal.
It is a narrow face in the upper area and wide in the lower area. Seen from the front, they are narrow at the top and broad at the bottom, and if we draw a vertical line from the temples to the jaw, it is oblique. As seen in the profile, the jawline is slightly oblique.
Therefore, the lines of the eyebrows and eyes should be elongated and slightly horizontal to give width to the upper area.
To do this, dark tones are applied to the most prominent part of the face, on the jaw, to hide it, and light tones on the sides of the forehead.
The blush is applied in a horizontal direction to provide greater amplitude to the upper area.
Inverted Triangular
In this case, since it is a face that is wider in the upper area and narrower in the lower area, the eyebrows and eyes should not be too straight or long to give the upper area greater width.
Therefore, the correction will be made by light tones in the jaw, starting from the lower area of the cheeks, and dark tones on the sides of the forehead.
The blush, meanwhile, will be applied in a slightly oblique direction to help reduce the width of the upper area.
Hexagonal
And finally, the hexagonal faces, a structure that, viewed from the front, has a narrow shape in the areas of the temples and jaw and wide in the part of the cheekbones.
In this type of face, try to lengthen the lines of the eyebrows and eyes horizontally slightly.
For this, clear corrections are used in the temporal areas and on both sides of the face, in the jaw.
Finally, the blush will be applied in a slightly oblique direction to reduce the width of the cheekbones.